by Cammye Gray
You must understand soil and its problems before you can be a successful gardener.

Water, humus, bacteria and sand are the four essentials of fertile soil. It is only through water that the plant can absorb food. Humus, is made by decayed plant and organic matter, holds water and food, and is porous, permitting the roots to breathe. Compost is the easiest way to add this component into your soil. Bacteria in humus liberate such elements as hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur for plant food. Sand needs to be present for drainage. Soil without humus is clay, sticky and compact, thus smothering plants, or sand which is too porous to retain moisture for the bacteria to do their work. An ideal soil mixture is 20% sharp sand, 40% humus and 40% ordinary soil which contains some clay. This soil will be crumbly and dark brown with certain adhesiveness when damp.


There are three kinds of soil: Acid, Neutral and Alkaline. Soil testing is usually done free of charge by your County Agricultural Agent. After determining the properties of your soil you If it found deficient in any area you can add to your soil as needed. Compost is a requirement that soil needs on a regular basis. Nature provides adequate compost in a natural environment. However, as we change the needs of soil by gardening, maintaining a lawn, or any unnatural situation we must replace this important element.


Fertilizers

There are two kinds of fertilizers: Organic and Chemical. Organic versus inorganic fertilizers often are discussed pro and con. More and more we are finding that organic fertilizers are safer, more cost efficient and do not cause the destruction of the fragile ecosystem in the area in which they are being used. Any chemical fertilizer will kill all beneficial bacteria, beneficial nematodes, insects, normal fungus and molds living in your soil. The use of organic fertilizers provide the necessary requirements in plant food but cause no destruction and help maintain the health and growth of the bacteria, inse cts, nematodes, funguses and such that leave your soil rich in natural components. The organic fertilizers also, do not harm the other living creatures that my be sharing your soil such as frogs, lizards, rabbits, deer and birds. The surrounding water supply used by our animal neighbors is always effected by what we put on our yards and gardens.

A. Manure—-obtained from animal droppings (cow, sheep, horse or poultry). When “green” or fresh, the good ingredients are still present. When rotted, most of these have leached out. Use “green” manure only in winter when plants are dormant. Dried manure may be purchased and is a fair substitute when you can’t get the real thing. Manure provides humus. Liquid manure—- use one gallon fresh cow or sheep manure in four gallons water. Let soak two or three days. Use two quarts of this liquid in three gallons water. It will be the color of weak tea. Apply one pint to each plant or more according to size. The residue will make a good mulch.

B. Compost and leaf mold—- Can easily be provided from your own yard. Compost provides humus.

C. Peat Moss—-partially decayed vegetable matter of swamp origin. It is acid and has food value as well as acting as a sponge to retain water in the soil. It is especially important for acid-loving plants. Peat moss provides humus.

You can fertilize by one of two methods: root feeding and foliar feeding. Root feeding involves applying directly to soil as you water. This is the normal feeding known as root feeding. This can be done with a hose end attachment or with any method to add the plant food and water to the soil. Foliar feeding is another method of fertilizing and it means you feed plants by spraying liquid food on the leaves. You can use your spray attachment to your hose. Foliar feeding is usually used to supplement the regular root feeding and when used together it provides very healthy plants and, it is often said, with the addition of foliar feeding this produces more prolific blooms when used on flowering plants. Foliar feeding can often save a sick plant. Foliar feeding is also helpful if your plants are sharing soil with a tree or bush where these larger plant’s roots will absorb most of the food. This method of fertilizing should be done in the morning when the leaves tend to absorb more than they do in the afternoon. Organic insecticide may be mixed with fertilizer.

Gardening in April

  • Sow seeds of tender annuals after the last frost.
  • Plant vegetables after the fear of frost has passed.
  • Dahlia seedlings go in permanent places now. Dahlia tubers are also planted this month.
  • Set stakes at time of planting for support.
  • Watch for mildew on Roses!

Snails and pill bugs are rampant this time of year. This is of special concern under violets, petunias and most newly planted tender plants. Cutworms are also going to be very busy under newly planted tender plants. Sometimes a cardboard collar around the stem until it hardens is a good protection.

Rain and sun in the spring start luxuriant growth. This means that established plants have exhausted the food in the soil. Now is the time for a generous coating of fertilizer in a circle well away from stems and leaves. This is not the time of year for outdoor foliar feeding. Foliar feeding is usually started outdoors after the plants are hardened and the days are warmer.

As a rule: Do not fertilize new bedding plants until they show some new growth in their new homes.

 

Suggestions: Bedding plants should be purchased and planted while small.

When transplanting any bedding plant, it may be beneficial to place a small dusting of organic insecticide or organic bait for snails, slugs and other pests every 12 inches. Replace after each rain.

Weeding is mire easily done after a rain. Get red of troublesome weeds now. They take the needed nourishment away from our plants when they drink their water!

Last updated by Melissa Ringstaff Jun. 18, 2008.

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